Day 6: Dressing the Groom

Early Morning Ceremony

We assembled at 4:30 AM so that the ceremony could be completed before sunrise, although the hired photographers brought their own sun - a horrible, harsh, direct, blinding halogen flood lamp. Jes sat lined up with his father (Vas), mother (Usha), and oldest nephew (Ramakanth) to receive blessings that included relatives taking turns placing rice on their heads and pasting various substances on their faces, legs, and feet. Mission accomplished, Jes proudly displayed his markings until it was all washed off in what appeared to be a formal scrub down.

Dressing the Groom

A couple hours later came another ritual called “Dressing the Groom”, which Krishna said was like decorating a male Barbie Doll. This one included hard slaps to Jes’ back as he bent over; something akin to a harsh birthday spanking, painting of feet, face markings, and placing of delicate gold jewelry on Ramakanth.

Rickshaw Driver with Andrew, Bongani, and Chris

Jes wasn’t allowed to leave the house, and the driver was asleep since he’d been moving people around the city all night. So Chris, Andrew, Bongani, and I set off on foot for the hotel, which we thought was right around the corner. It was not. After realizing we’d made a wrong turn and been walking for a kilometer or so in the opposite direction intended, we decided to hire a manual rickshaw.

It didn’t seem right the four of us hopping on. The little rickshaw driver pedaled with all his might at times, so much so that I thought the sprocket might give or the chain explode. Andrew and I felt sorry watching him sweat, his little legs bearing down so hard on the pedals. We got off to walk along side, but the rickshaw driver quickly motioned us back onto the platform. He didn’t speak any English, thus perhaps an understandable misunderstanding. Instead of taking us to the bus station (by our hotel), he took us the wrong way across town to the train station. Though we realized our misfortune immediately, it wasn't to be his. We just got off with a smile and paid him 100 rupee, instead of the 20 rupee he had indicated at the beginning. If he didn’t pass out from the strenuous, hot effort to get us there, he surely almost did after receiving 100 rupee.

Celebrating on the Bus

A large tour bus was hired to take us from Bapatla to Hyderabad. At first the ride looked inviting. There was an open seat next to Jes. I would later find out why. I sat down next to him. Soon into the trip, Jes’ relatives began a procession of dance and song, which seemed to be sort of a challenge to each successive effort ending up livelier than the previous. This was apparently a form of roast at times so loud it hurt my ear drums as they leaned over me to produce an effect on Jes. So I retired to the back of the bus and let them have him.

I got sick halfway through the day with fever, diarrhea, and exhaustion. I ought to make it, but I’m swearing off Indian food for a bit and taking my medication now. I’m the first of our group to catch something. I also made "healthy" for 5-1/2 days in India. We’ll see how the new guys (just coming in yesterday) do before I admit to being the softest.