Day 2: The Best Driver Ever

View of Hyderabad

Jes said you need to be hand held your first week in India. I for one am appreciating being hand held.

Indians wiggle their heads when they talk, just like a bobble head doll slightly moving on the spring that it sits. I find this interesting and watch almost fixated as they do it.

We bought toilet paper at a western style grocery store, and I asked why. ‘Because they typically don’t have that in many parts of India’, Jes replied.

More New Indian Foods

Chris began signing a credit card receipt. Andrew quietly noted that he hadn’t realized Chris wrote with his left hand. Jes interjected, ‘he writes with his poop hand’. I had to get in on the action too and raised my voice from the background where the three of us were patiently waiting. I exclaimed, ‘hey Chris! You write with your poop hand!” to make sure the secret got out.

We saw a little street shop selling door mats; piles and piles of them out on the sidewalk and inside. The sign read, ‘150 Rupee per kilo’, and we laughed. Jes then informed us that he’d bought underwear here by the kilo too.

Hindus and Muslims enjoying Chowmahalla Palace

Yesterday, we had a tour guide at Golconda and later sat there for a light show with narration. Golconda was built from the 11th to 15th centuries by different waves of peoples and rulers. The lessons impressed upon me that Arabs, Iranians, Turks, and Afghans (to name a few groups) periodically conquered these parts. I was surprised to learn that black Africans were imported as slaves during some of Golconda’s development too. The tour guide would lecture us about all these profound things, such as the 7 km outer wall, 4 huge water tanks built into the hillside at various elevations, water conduits, etc. But I kept asking about the African slaves, which Jes found odd yet amusing.

Chowmahalla Palace

The man said, ‘no camera, no iPhone, no shoes’ emphatically over and over. So Andrew, Chris, and I left our footwear and our expensive cameras and phones back in the car with our driver Ali. This was a lot of trust on our part. If Ali was gone when we returned, it’s not the money that concerned us but instead being totally isolated and cut off from anything we know in this sea of a billion people. ‘Don’t worry’, I told Andrew, ‘we can sleep on the sidewalk. I’ve seen others doing it.'

We made our way up the marble stairs, past marble shrines and marble walls (everything marble) to the pinnacle of Balaja Temple (Hindu). There was a man with a double barrel shotgun over his shoulder blowing a whistle and actively directing people. We had to pass through a metal detector and a light pat-down. We were the only foreigners. Ali later informed us this was not a tourist area, but for locals only typically. We were here because of Jes' knowledge and effort.

Their deities typically have 4 arms and sometimes 3 heads. The God statue in the large shrine at the top was a giant with a black face and a grand silver frame. As our position in line neared the front, I watched as two holy men performed a ceremony for every visitor. Each sipped liquid dished into their hand by one holy man followed by a bonk on the head with an upside down silver goblet by the other.

Andrew, Chris, and I debated what we’d do with the liquid when it was our turn. I slurped mine down and rubbed the rest into my hair as the rest before me had done. I also received my bonking. Andrew confessed he missed his mouth, while Chris admitted to pretending to swallow as he carried the precious liquid in his still cupped and fisted hand. They did receive their bonking though. I think this might make me Hindu and them half Hindu. I’ll have to clarify with Jes.

With Ali, The Best Driver Ever

Ali has been our driver for the past two days. We had him for 8 hours and 80 kilometers at a total rate of about $40 US. He doesn’t just drop us off and go about his business. He stays with us the entire day! He took us to the museum and waited with the car. He took us to the money exchange and chatted with the employees there. He took us to the shopping center and waited for 2 hours. He took us to Chowmahalla Palace and as we strolled and as we photographed, guess what – he waited! It just goes on and on

Ali’s not just our driver. He is our guide, servant, and protector. He stays in the background when not needed and provides tips and advice when appropriate. Ali has a hoarse, animated voice and often conducts what seems to be elaborate conversations in the Hindi language on his cell phone as we drive. I noticed Andrew watching him with great interest, as did I. You just can’t help but watch his mannerisms. Chris said he should have been a famous singer with that voice, and I agreed. It's a completely unique and cool sound. Ali has the cheerful, innocent spirit of a child. It's one of the best qualities a person can have in life, in my opinion. He asked in broken English if we were happy with his service and clapped and hooted with joy when we confirmed in the positive. He so wants to please us. Oh yes, and he’s the best driver ever. I can’t even describe how crazy it is to drive here, and Ali does it with complete adaptability, creativity, and competence. Being in his car is watching a true master of a profession at work.

Saying Goodbye to Ali

Chowmahalla Palace

Wedding in India

Day 2: The Best Driver Ever

< Previous Post         Next Post >