Day 19 - Shark Bay

Wind Powered Piston Water Pump

The street sweeper went by at 5:00 a.m. and woke me up. So, I was off to the races by 5:30 a.m. Fortunately, I was still in the bigger town of Geraldton and was able to get my coffee for the road at McDonalds.

My destination was Shark Bay, which is a World Heritage Area about 6 hours north. World Heritage Areas are rare and must excel in four criteria for listing: Natural Beauty, Earth’s History, Ecological Processes, and Bio Diversity. Each was clearly apparent to me. It’s one of those kinds of places that’s spread out, connected by a few roads, where everyone’s a tourist hitting the advertised featured attractions. There were lots of rental cars and Wicked camper vans zipping about, and we all knew the routine: Move as quickly as possible to the next attraction, get out and gawk for a few minutes, take some photos for trophies, (maybe laugh and smile), and get away as fast as possible so as to do it again down the road. Still, it’s an incredible place for sure (and not over crowded).

Just when you characterize something, there’s the exception. I just happen to be writing today’s blog at “Little Lagoon”, and after 15 minutes I’m still looking around at the same swimmers, sunbathers, and vehicles in the parking lot. Time for me to get to the next attraction.

Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool, Shark Bay

I almost named this blog “Stromatolites” because this location contains the best examples of them on Earth. I had read about stromatolites last year, back home. They aren’t really very cool for what they are now (they’re basically concrete cow patties in the surf), but they are cool for what they represent to the development of life on this planet. The Earth originally had only trace levels of oxygen. Somehow (a different story), stromatolites came to be the dominate (almost exclusive) life form 3.5 billion years ago. Their byproduct (waste) was oxygen. Through this process (one little bubble at a time) and a span of 3 billion years, they raised the atmosphere’s oxygen level to about 20% (where it is today). Unfortunately for the stromatolites, some of the animals that developed in the oxygen-rich atmosphere found them to be tasty. Until fairly recently, scientists had believed stromatolites to be extinct (eaten away) some 500 million years ago. But alas, they do still exist – in the protected and very saline waters such as Hamelin Pool here in Shark Bay.

Shell Beach, Shark Bay

Shell Beach is an example of accumulations of coquina shells accumulated for miles and miles – sometimes as deep as ten meters. I found a shell quarry where early settlers used saws to cut shell blocks for building materials. These accumulations of shells are up to 6,000 years old and in the process of turning into lime stone.

On the way up, I drove over a bridge of the Murchison River, which was at flood stage. Normally this is a hot, dry landscape. However, due to recent heavy rains I could see sandy soils still damp and pools of standing water. It’s still hot.

Blue Tongue Lizard (how rude!)

I spotted a lizard trying to cross the road. Upon inspection of the beast, I got a blue tongue thrust in my direction. How rude! I forget where now, but I read about this guy someplace. Believe it or not, I’m pretty sure it’s called a Blue Tongue Lizard.

There’s little or no tipping in Australia. Most places you go up to the counter and to make your order (even at sit-down restaurants). I found that a little weird last night when I ordered my pizza for dinner.

As most know, there are a lot of sheep in this country. Merino wool is the finest in the world. But they realized early on that it’s too hot for them here. So they cross bred them with other species (e.g. from Spain) for heat tolerance. I still feel sorry for them in this heat.

I saw my first Emus, but they ran as soon as I turned around for a picture. They must have learned that trick from the kangaroos. Emus look similar to ostriches, and they’re native to Australia.

“Fine” is not what a woman says when you’re in trouble. It’s a meteorological term. It means “sunny”, e.g. ‘fine skies’ are predicted today.

This is as far north as I’ll be in Western Australia, which is almost exactly at the 26th parallel. It’s not quite tropical (technically), but it’s close. It got up to 34 C today. I'm hot and sticky and tired.

They say, “how are you going” where we say, “how are you doing”. Little differences.

And here's another song for ya: Cut Copy - Take Me Over

On the way to Shark Bay

(Muddy Red) Murchison River at Flood Stage

Shark Bay (a very tiny piece of it)

Return to Oz

Day 19 – Shark Bay

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