Day 12: Indian Disco Rickshaw

My pro-Nikon camera is out of commission. So I can't use my big glass to capture images today. I used an iPhone in its stead.

Erik and Tom in the Indian Disco Rickshaw

As soon as I looked weak, a rickshaw driver swooped in. This time it was good, because we were weak and we did need a ride. Even though it was dark, I noticed something different about this rickshaw quickly. I’ve relied on Andrew to do the negotiating. He seems to understand what I often hear as gibberish. I just climbed in and let the others direct and negotiate curbside with the driver.

This rickshaw had soft and decorative linings, large speakers built into the back shelf, and (later I would learn) an interior blue LED dome light and obviously an amp someplace to power large subwoofers. This was a pimped-out rickshaw and a swanky rickshaw driver to our rescue.

The five of us plus driver jumped in. It was a carriage designed for perhaps 3 small Indians but practically used for as much as you could stuff in. I pointed to the speakers exclaiming to the driver, ‘play it!’ He replied, ‘I will!’, so fast that I realized it was his intention all along. First though, we had to wait for the imam. Across the street a prayer was in play, and our rickshaw driver didn’t want to move the vehicle or turn on the music until the imam was finished. As we sat waiting he joked, ‘I’m not a terrorist.' We laughed.

Andrew up front with the Driver of the Indian Disco Rickshaw

Finally the PA system of the prayer "scratched", which was a sign that the imam had completed his broadcast. And with that, the rickshaw engine and blue dome light came to life. The stereo system began to blast some type of music that maybe can be described as a version of Bollywood and a cross between a lively Cuban salsa and the song “YMCA” by The Bee Gees. We raced through traffic bathed in that blue light, with the wind and road noises coming straight at us through open sides, and the full-on assault of the blaring beats. It was magical. “Indian disco rickshaw!”, the driver exclaimed over the music.

Elephants qued-up at the bottom of Amber Fort

We rode elephants today. Mine sneezed halfway up the mountain, and I was sprayed with heavy liquids. I was up front and shielded Tom from most of it. We took it as a blessing.

I let my travel mates follow our new guide into yet another palace for the day and excused myself to do anything but another palace. I was beginning to check out already (my flight leaves tomorrow evening) and was sort of resenting being the tourist. I didn’t know where I was going except that it was going to be in exactly the opposite direction as that palace and the badgering from sales baggers that I knew would accompany that experience.

So down the dirty streets I went. The clouds evaporated in the troposphere. I began sweating again. Everything was quite un-typical of a palace, which pleased me immensely. I preferred the active lives and randomness of the dirty streets to the sterile confines and empty, pretty shells of past peoples. I rested in the shade next to some homeless and pulled out my wallet to give one some money just to thank him for not begging me or pestering me. Then I thought better of it, put my wallet away, and moved on looking over my shoulder to ensure nobody was pursuing me after seeing my wallet out.

Used to being approached now, I easily walked among the crowd ignoring occasional pleas to buy and give. I didn’t even turn my head to acknowledge them. It was the people who left me alone or the ones who simply smiled and waved, who I was endeared to; who I would approach on my own terms or not at all. I was just trying (hoping) to keep a good attitude when persistent interjections came at me. This may sound harsh, but it was me learning to survive here.

Market in Jaipur

Then I happened upon something unexpected; something charming. It was an open market and the people were buying and selling from beautiful displays of fruits and spices and flowers. I became enchanted and walked the muddy paths between vendors snapping images with my iPhone. Cows were present on garbage piles again, but here I noticed they were being fed fresh organics such as flowers, potatoes, limes, and grasses. I suppose I’ve just gotten used to cows in the streets and on the garbage now. I at least feel better seeing them eat well. Tin workers recycled used oil cans. A barber was shaving customers. Foods were being prepared. I was being watched by many as I mingled in the crowd and nobody approached me for something other than the occasional smile, friendly comments, or request to see a photo I had just taken.

Afterwards I walked back with spirits lifted.